Wednesday, April 3, 2013

IN THE ROYAL LAND -- definale




I left from OR Tambo in September 2012:  

Johannesburg/Dubai/Riyadh and then on to Tabuk.

I had quite a long layover between flights but took the time to refresh and catch up on some sleep at the hotel which the company arranged for me.

From RSA to KSA.

So I am here! To put it mildly, Saudi Arabia gives new meaning to the term “culture shock” in terms of culture and social norms.  As many of you may already know,   women   have very little, if any, freedom of movement here and are not allowed to drive. 

We also have to dress conservatively in public. 

Since Saudi Arabia is a country governed strictly by the Islamic rules, it is generally forbidden for women to show any part of the body.Hence a group called hai'a or Commission for the Promotion of Virtue and Prevention of Vice, whose officers (muttawa)  patrol public areas and generally have to correct the behaviour of those who they deem are not conforming to the rules. 

If a woman is not wearing the head covering (hijab), they will point it out and the woman will quickly obey, so as to avoid further trouble.  I arrived into this new world order and decided I will never ever defy the muttawa -- I'm scared stiff of them and of  incarceration. 


I work at Tabuk University which is big but surprisingly the facilities are rather mediocre compared to ours.   Their Cafeteria  is dubbed Crapeteria" - which speaks for itself.   :) 

I live in a quaint little city called Tabuk.  I regret not having opted for Riyadh or Jeddah which are purported to have more western amenities.

Compounds however, are western-styled and modern.  I currently live in an apartment which is comfortable and spacious.
We have drivers who take us everywhere  since we're not allowed out on our own. I've just not bothered to question this arrangement and quietly left matters as they are.

Developing a social life is near impossible.  The only social activity for us is ex-pat get-togethers in the compound.

There’s not much we could be doing on our own other than shopping, going to the dessert (which I loved and was the only highlight so far). Also, we have to wear a scarf (hijab) a black cloak (abaya) and a face veil (niqab). The niqab, however, is optional for foreign women. Being a "bushy", wearing a hijab is very welcome,  especially on those bad hair days.   The pics will show what this sedentary existence is now doing to my waistline :)  We have no gyms here for women! And I have no inclination to workout on my own either.

Existence could not get emptier than this. Business hours are circumscribed by a strict adherence to the Muslim call to prayer five times a day. 

Saudi Arabia is virtually devoid of public entertainment. Thursday night which is the equivalent of our Saturday night is nothing like ours. 


I think of movies, clubs. I think of watering holes, Phuza Thursday -- and then  I look at the Saudi students and think ignorance is most definitely bliss.  Back home our students have Rags, sport, movies, clubs and so much more to look forward to and take part in.   

Restaurants have separate seating areas for single men and families (single women are not allowed in restaurants). What do you do if you’re dating and how do you get to meet the opposite sex? The difference between our weekends and weekends Saudi-style, couldn't get any starker than this.

My Saudi experience is somewhat mixed.   Some friends, who have formerly lived and worked here, although not in my field, gave unflattering reviews about the place and I looked upon them as scare-mongering. I now realise most of it is true. Yes, women have to wear an Abaya and headscarf, they are not allowed to drive, there’s not a social life to speak of, but my time here has given me the chance for introspection and reflection.

Truth be told, to be in Saudi Arabia made economic sense only, but it also turned out to be my epiphany.  Being away from family and friends is tough and I miss home terribly. 


Never in my life have I felt soooo alone. It feels like I’m on a totally different planet.   I've decided that this is my last stint of overseas teaching.  I need to put down roots and Mzansi is the place to be :)

Ciao Ciao and may the force be with you!  

I leave you with this thought:  

“Remember that wherever your heart is, 
there you will find your treasure”  
Paulo Coelho,   The Alchemist    ;)

      

          














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